Friday, June 8, 2012

Sewing Session 2: My First Dress Pattern

My first dress pattern
Now that I have successfully created my first skirt I thought I would try a dress. 

A little research before I start cutting fabric
 A few weeks ago I was rummaging through a thrift store and came across some vintage sewing patterns. You can't beat a pattern for 50 cents when they cost $10.00 or more now at a store. So unsure exactly what I was buying  I picked out this McCalls dress pattern.

It's difficult to look through a book of patterns and try to envision them on you, how it might fit, and what sort of fabric is going to work well with it.

 I am sure those are all things that become second hand knowledge with time but for a beginner, the process can be a little daunting. Not to mention fabric is expensive so you don't want to make a mistake and waste any material. 

I now have a much greater appreciation of any garment I buy. I find myself examining the construction of my clothing  while I am getting dressed. I'm wondering how did they finish off the hem or how did they make these pleats... It's like a whole new world has opened up before me. I never thought twice before about how my shirt was sewn together I just threw it on and went about my business. Now I am thinking, I could totally make this myself.

All of my pattern pieces are cut and ready to sew
Transfer the pattern
 I didn't think to look before I purchased this pattern but it's a good idea to make sure the pattern has not already been cut to size when buying used patterns. 


Thankfully, when I got home and opened it, the pattern had not been cut. It was still nicely folded from the factory.  It took a good hour, a girlfriend, and a large table to lay out my fabric and cut out all the pieces required.  Some had to be upside down others had to be on a fold, and all the while you have to make sure you are cutting the fabric with the grain line....  This pattern starts on the bodice first. I was moving right along until I get to the part about the pleats. I must have starred at this darn pattern for 15min wondering what the heck they were talking about... Connect the small dots to the large dots... It took a little time but I finally figured it out and I love the look the pleats add to the bodice. In fact I added an extra one when I was finished.
Figuring out these gathers

My first pleats and I love the braided straps
One of my favorite details about this dress are the braided straps. They add a nice touch to an otherwise simple design. I like the straps so much I want to try this dress again but next time elongate the straps a little so I can cris-cross them in the back. I was even thinking about incorporating the braided fabric into the waistband area. Turn it into a more Grecian style dress.

I added a few vintage buttons







Another new trick I learner was gathers.... I had to get out my trusty holy grail of sewing to figure out what they were talking about. That's a great technique to get the fit just right before sewing it down for the final stitch. I was able to compensate for my lack of bosom quite nicely and the addition of pleats made it look like I have something going on up there... Getting the bodice to fit just right was really the hardest part. I had to keep pinning things and running into my bathroom to make sure I was doing it right. My next investment will be an adjustable dress form for sure...

The skirt section was a breeze and I was able to use the gathers again to adjust the volume and fit of the skirt. This had a maxi skirt bottom which looks cute but for my body I think the a-line or bias cut would be more flattering. 

I am in love with my first dress
I ended up working on this dress a little each day for 4 days or so. In between chores I would sneak 10min here and there to finish up a hem or iron the next section. Just ironing and pining the hem takes forever... 

Anyway, I like to set goals for myself so I am forced to finish a project. I decided I was going to wear my beautiful dress out on a date night to the new Snow White movie. So there I am adjusting the straps 30 min. before we had to leave... 

But I got it done and was able to wear my beautiful new dress out on the town. I felt like a princess and had my very own prince to take me out. 

All dressed up for date night
I'm not sure exactly how hard it will be but I would like to marry a bias skirt to this bodice pattern on my next attempt.  If all goes well I am going to use that pattern for my wedding dress. Matt is in charge of designing our wedding rings from the gold we dug up and I am going to sew my own wedding dress. 

If only I can find some beautiful vintage lace to incorporate into the wedding dress... 














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